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Francesco Scognamiglio | WOMEN’S FW 12/13 FASHION SHOW

>> Thursday, March 15, 2012

Francesco Scognamiglio | WOMEN’S FW 12/13 FASHION SHOW

 A journey through the artistic currents of the early 20th century, a concentrate of contrasting
influences and styles which combines with the appeal of the many expressions of art, like a
narrative of volumes, forms and proportions. This is Francesco Scognamiglio’s autumnwinter

A tribute to the Neo-Plasticism of the Dutch master Theo Van Doesburg is seen in the simple cuts and precise geometric shapes of the volumes, hinting at a universal harmony, and harmony of forms, that severs all links with the natural world.

The outfits are based on geometric compositions and have clean, precise lines corresponding
to an exact mixture of colours which, too, primary and in blocks. This artistic influence is particularly obvious in the black and white graphic motifs created by eel-skin edging appliquéd, in the manner of a signature, on dresses and formal outerwear.

There is a definite focus on leather and leather-working; it accompanies the major role given
to wool cloth, becoming lighter in the form of placed prints on silk twill. This severity is counterbalanced by an emotive, transcendent surrealism that comes alive in prints and explodes in the Freudian symbol of an open fruit, heightening the value of the perceived element like a recurring theme throughout the collection.
The protagonist, an allegorical pink grapefruit: printed on silk twill, it seems to detach itself,
dream-like, from the clothes. It flourishes in three-dimensional jersey draping and culminates
in the embroidery on the final, long dress on which the fruit segments become organs and
appendages of the body.The palette concentrates on black and white and on shades of grey before exploding in metallic nuances of green and grapefruit pink.



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